← Reading

Dig up a road in Rome and the past comes out

Rome does not have just one layer of road. Beneath the surface you are walking on there is an earlier road, and under that, traces of another way of living. Which is why the line "dig up a road and you hit ruins" suits the place. You do not actually have to dig. Staring at the map long enough is enough to reveal that a city cannot be explained by its present alone.

The ruins this piece is talking about are not a list of attractions. They are a way a city has of showing several eras stacked into one frame. When the names of the streets, the shape of the squares, the old walls and the newly worn paths of daily life are all visible at once, Rome feels less like a place that stores time than a place where time keeps being painted over.

A line bending northwest out of Seoul

Rome's coordinates are 41.9028, 12.4964. Measured along the great circle from Seoul it is 8,966 km, on a bearing of northwest. The reason the line does not look straight on the flat map on screen is that the shortest path joining Seoul and Rome runs over the surface of a sphere. A short line on a sphere can look bent once it is moved onto a plane.

The countries the service marks along this route are South Korea → North Korea → China → Mongolia → Russia → Ukraine → Hungary → Romania → Hungary → Croatia → Bosnia and Herz. → Croatia → Italy. It is not a forecast of where an actual flight would go, but it lets you read the direction of travel as a sequence of countries. Seoul to Rome is not a road you can skip over with the single word "Europe." Borders and seas and continents arrive in order.

Eleven hours pass and there is still time left

The service's cruise-based estimate is about 11.0 hours. It assumes 850km/h plus half an hour of ground travel, so it is not a real schedule. It does, though, translate the number 8,966 km into something the body understands. Endure one long journey and it is not the scenery that changes so much as the reference point of your day.

Rome's time zone is Europe/Rome, 7 hours behind Seoul. A Seoul morning may still be close to dawn in Rome; a Seoul evening may be the start of Rome's day. The population recorded in this dataset is about 2,318,895 (GeoNames). The coordinate is a single point, but the quantity of time layered onto that point is not as easy to count as people are.

The antipode is -41.9, -167.5, sitting in the middle of the ocean (no land). That there is no city on the far side of Rome makes the city's layers sharper still. At one end, time piles up underfoot; at the other, there is only water.

The waypoints are small chronicles too

Among the candidates for a Rome route, Dalian is 493km from Seoul with a detour ratio of 1.01. Qingdao is 610km at 1.03, and Fukuoka 540km at 1.12. These numbers are not a recommended sightseeing order. They show how much the line to the final destination stretches when you insert one city near the origin.

Break it down further and Nagasaki at 597km / 1.13, Hiroshima at 606km / 1.13, Beppu at 627km / 1.14, Matsuyama at 667km / 1.15 and Takamatsu at 730km / 1.16 all qualify. Instead of memorising the long distance from Seoul to Rome in one piece, dividing it into short intervals like 493km and 610km makes the road legible. Each waypoint is not part of the destination but a marker where you briefly confirm the direction of it.

Calling Rome a place where digging up a road turns up ruins does not mean the past crowds out the present. It means the old road keeps lying folded under the current one. The same is true of an imaginary line running 8,966 km out of Seoul. Several countries and several eras overlap on one sheet of map. Rome remains a city that does not hide the overlap.

What we are not certain about

  • Nothing
Build a journey to Rome